{"id":3388,"date":"2026-09-28T22:49:57","date_gmt":"2026-09-28T14:49:57","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.andesparaglider.com\/blog\/?p=3388"},"modified":"2026-09-28T22:49:57","modified_gmt":"2026-09-28T14:49:57","slug":"how-to-remove-as1252-bolts-series-safely-4db8-5a3eb2","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.andesparaglider.com\/blog\/2026\/09\/28\/how-to-remove-as1252-bolts-series-safely-4db8-5a3eb2\/","title":{"rendered":"How to remove AS1252 Bolts Series safely?"},"content":{"rendered":"

If you\u2019re reading this, chances are you\u2019ve run up against AS1252 bolts before\u2014whether you\u2019re an industrial maintenance tech, a construction foreman, a hobbyist building heavy machinery, or even someone stuck with a stubborn bolt on a weekend project. I\u2019ve been on the supply end of AS1252 bolts for over a decade now, and I can\u2019t tell you how many times I\u2019ve fielded panicked calls from customers who messed up an extraction because they skipped a simple step, or tried to use the wrong tool, and ended up damaging the bolt, the workpiece, or (worse) themselves. AS1252 isn\u2019t just any old bolt series\u2014they\u2019re designed for high-torque applications, from heavy equipment frames to structural steel bridges, so they\u2019re built to hold tight. That same toughness, though, makes them a bear to remove if you don\u2019t know what you\u2019re doing. Today, I\u2019m walking you through the safe, proven steps I\u2019ve shared with our customers over the years, no sketchy hacks or unnecessary risks. AS1252 Bolts Series<\/a><\/p>\n

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First, let\u2019s start with why safety and preparation matter more than speed. I\u2019ve seen a tech yank a wrench too hard, slip, and crack a gear housing; I\u2019ve seen a DIYer use a torch on a bolt that was holding a propane tank (that ended way worse than the bolt). AS1252 bolts are made from medium-carbon or alloy steel, hardened to withstand extreme stress, so brute force rarely works. Rushing past prep steps just turns a minor removal job into a repair or injury. Before you touch a single tool, take 10 minutes to confirm two things: the workpiece is stable, and you know what you\u2019re working with. If you\u2019re on a construction site, chock the area under the steel beam or heavy equipment frame so it doesn\u2019t shift while you work. If you\u2019re indoors, clear a 2-foot radius around the bolt to avoid knocking over tools or parts if something slips. Also, double-check that this is actually an AS1252 bolt\u2014their markings are standard: a series number stamped on the head, usually followed by a size code like M20 or 3\/4\u201d. If you\u2019re not sure, cross-reference with our spec sheets (we have them free on our portal for all our customers) before you start.<\/p>\n

Next, the most common mistake I see people make is ignoring the thread treatment and corrosion that AS1252 bolts often have. Because these bolts are used in outdoor or high-moisture environments, they\u2019re almost always coated\u2014zinc, hot-dip galvanized, or even painted for structural jobs\u2014plus years of exposure to dust, rain, or construction debris can cause the threads to seize up. Seized threads are why a bolt that turned smoothly when it was installed suddenly won\u2019t budge after 5 years. The fix here is penetrant lubricant, and not just any old WD-40. Wait, hold on\u2014WD-40 is a lubricant, but it\u2019s not designed for deep thread penetration, especially on hardened steel. We recommend a high-quality penetrant like PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench\u2019s heavy-duty formula, which has solvents that eat through rust and break the friction between the bolt\u2019s threads and the hole. The trick here isn\u2019t spraying it once and walking away: apply the penetrant evenly to the bolt head and around the base, then let it sit. For standard seized bolts, 15 to 20 minutes is enough, but if the bolt is in a wet, outdoor spot, give it an hour\u2014even overnight if it\u2019s really bad. You can also gently tap the side of the bolt head with a small mallet (never a sledgehammer, that\u2019ll crack the head) to help the penetrant seep deeper into the threads; the tiny vibrations loosen rust particles that the spray can\u2019t reach.<\/p>\n

Once the penetrant has done its work, it\u2019s time to pick the right tool for the job. This is another area where people cut corners, and it almost always leads to a damaged bolt. AS1252 bolt heads are typically 6-point hex or 12-point, and you need a socket that fits perfectly\u2014no half-measures. A socket that\u2019s even 1\/32\u201d too small will round off the edges of the bolt head, turning a manageable removal into a nightmare. I\u2019ve had to rush replacement AS1252 bolts to customers who tried to use a worn-out socket and rounded the head so bad they had to drill it out, which added hours to their project (and cost them more money). So, check the bolt head\u2019s edges with a caliper or a new socket first. For most AS1252 applications, a 1\/2-inch drive impact wrench is ideal\u2014but only if you use the right setting. Impact wrenches deliver sudden, high torque, which is great for seized bolts, but if you set it to max torque, you can snap the bolt right off at the thread. Start with a medium setting, reverse the wrench, and let the tool do the work; you don\u2019t need to push or pull hard on the handle. If you don\u2019t have an impact wrench, a ratchet with a long handle works too\u2014longer handle means more leverage, so you don\u2019t have to apply as much force. Never use a breaker bar with a cheater pipe longer than 2 feet, though; that\u2019s a recipe for applying too much torque in one spot, again risking a broken bolt or a slipped wrench.<\/p>\n

Wait, what if the bolt is still stuck even after all that? This is when people start jumping to the worst options: torching the bolt head, or drilling into it. I get why they do it\u2014frustration makes you want to solve the problem fast\u2014but both of those methods are high-risk and can damage the workpiece. Torching, for example, generates extreme heat that can warp metal around the bolt, like a nearby pipe or a structural beam, and if you\u2019re working near flammable materials (gas lines, insulation), that\u2019s a fire hazard. Drilling is less dangerous but requires precision: if your drill bit is off-center, you\u2019ll damage the internal thread in the hole, which means you have to re-tap the entire hole (a job that takes special tools and know-how). Instead, I recommend two safer, more targeted options. The first is a bolt extractor kit, specifically made for AS1252 series bolts. These kits have a hardened steel bit that fits into the center of a bolt head (you drill a small pilot hole first, only 1\/8 inch deep\u2014no need to drill all the way through the bolt) and then an extractor that bites into the bolt when you turn it counterclockwise. The key here is using the right size pilot hole\u2014check your extractor kit\u2019s guide to match it to your bolt size\u2014otherwise, the bit will slip. The second option is applying controlled heat, only to the bolt head, not the surrounding metal. If you use a torch, point the flame only at the bolt, not the workpiece, and heat it for 10 to 15 seconds, then immediately apply more penetrant and try turning it. The heat expands the bolt\u2019s head and threads, breaking the rust seal. This works, but only if you take care to keep the heat off nearby materials that could be damaged.<\/p>\n

Let\u2019s also talk about what to never do when removing AS1252 bolts, because these are the mistakes I see the most often. First, never use a regular drill bit to drill a seized bolt without a pilot hole. That\u2019s how you slip and ruin the thread, leading to extra work and replacement parts. Second, never weld a nut to the seized bolt head to get more leverage\u2014welding can warp the bolt, and if the nut isn\u2019t aligned perfectly, you\u2019ll just pull the bolt straight, breaking the shank off in the hole. Third, never skip wearing personal protective equipment (PPE). Even if it\u2019s a small bolt, a loose shard of broken steel can fly at your face, or a wrench can slip and hit your hand. Wear safety glasses, work gloves, and steel-toe boots every single time you work with these bolts. Fourth, don\u2019t use a hammer on the socket or bolt head. Tapping a bolt head with a mallet is fine, but a steel hammer on a socket can bend the socket\u2019s edges or chip it, making it useless for future bolts.<\/p>\n

Now, what if you\u2019re removing an AS1252 bolt that\u2019s broken flush with the workpiece? That\u2019s a specific case that our team gets questions about all the time. In this scenario, you can\u2019t use a socket or a bolt extractor that fits over the head, so you need to use a different tool. Start by marking the exact center of the broken bolt with a punch, then drill a pilot hole as deep as the bolt\u2019s core. Once you have the pilot hole, tap in a left-handed drill bit\u2014these bits turn counterclockwise, so when they catch on the bolt\u2019s threads, they\u2019ll pull the broken bolt out as you drill. If that doesn\u2019t work, you can use an easy out tool, which is designed for flush broken bolts, but again, take it slow. If you force the easy out, it\u2019ll break inside the hole, making an already bad problem worse.<\/p>\n

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At the end of the day, the most important rule for removing AS1252 bolts safely is patience. I\u2019ve been in this industry long enough to know that 10 minutes spent prepping, using the right tool, and taking it slow saves you hours of repair work, and keeps you safe. If you\u2019re working on a big project, or you\u2019re not confident in any step of this process, don\u2019t hesitate to bring in a professional. We supply AS1252 bolts to contractors, maintenance teams, and DIYers across the country, and we pride ourselves on not just selling quality parts, but helping our customers use them correctly. If you have questions about AS1252 bolt sizes, removal tips, or need a replacement bolt for a stuck one, we\u2019re here to help. You can reach our team to discuss your project, get custom quotes, or ask any technical questions\u2014we\u2019re happy to walk you through every step to make sure your project goes smoothly.<\/p>\n

A193 Hex Bolts Series<\/a> References<\/p>\n

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  1. Machinery\u2019s Handbook, 31st Edition, Industrial Press, 2020, Section on Fastener Removal and Corrosion Mitigation<\/li>\n
  2. ASME B18.2.1, Standard for Hex Screws and Bolts, American Society of Mechanical Engineers, 2022, Section on AS1252 Series Bolt Specifications<\/li>\n
  3. Fastener Safety and Best Practices, Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA), 2021, Technical Reference Guide for Industrial Maintenance Work<\/li>\n
  4. Practical Bolt Extraction Techniques, Society of Manufacturing Engineers (SME), 2019, Tutorial on High-Torque Fastener Removal for Industrial Applications<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n
    \n

    Ningbo Taida Fastener Manufacture Co., Ltd.<\/a>
    Ningbo Taida Fastener Manufacture Co., Ltd. is well-known as one of the leading as1252 bolts manufacturers and suppliers in China. Please feel free to buy high quality as1252 bolts at competitive price from our factory. Good service and punctual delivery are available.
    Address: No.286 Galaxy Road, Chengdong Industrial Park, Xiangshan Economic Development Zone, Ningbo China
    E-mail: suki@tdfasteners.com
    WebSite:     https:\/\/www.td-fasteners.com\/<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

    If you\u2019re reading this, chances are you\u2019ve run up against AS1252 bolts before\u2014whether you\u2019re an industrial … How to remove AS1252 Bolts Series safely?<\/span>Read more<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":266,"featured_media":3388,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[3351],"class_list":["post-3388","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-industry","tag-as1252-bolts-series-4b07-5a7775"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.andesparaglider.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3388","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.andesparaglider.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.andesparaglider.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.andesparaglider.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/266"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.andesparaglider.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=3388"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"http:\/\/www.andesparaglider.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3388\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.andesparaglider.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3388"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.andesparaglider.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=3388"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.andesparaglider.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=3388"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.andesparaglider.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=3388"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}